Xang Phi: Elephant Spirit.

A few weeks ago I woke up in the middle of the night by a strong "crack"; it was one of those sounds that you never forget once you have heard it: an elephant eating a tree. I went back to sleep wondering why there was an elephant so close to the camp, normally the mahouts take them deep into the forest where there is enough natural forage for them to feed on. The next morning I demanded to know who was the lazy mahout that didn't take his elephant where he's suppose to. I noticed how everyone looked concerned and .... afraid? The Shaman was the one who finally broke the silence and explained to me that what I heard was an elephant's spirit that roams around the camp every full moon; an elephant that was buried here last summer and since then has never left. 

Apparently this elephant was a former patient of our hospital (cause of death still unknown) that was buried here at the center a few months ago (I wasn't here yet so couldn't give you more details). In Laos, they believe that elephants have 32 body souls (like humans) so when an elephant passes away, a day-long ceremony takes place where the Shaman chants certain Buddhist mantras and it finalizes with the cremation of the body (not a burial). Therefore, every full moon the elephant's spirit roams around and cannot move on to its next life. Lao people believe strongly in spirits and are very afraid of them... no one likes to speak of them, walk alone at night or even sleep by themselves!

Last night when I saw the full moon staring at me glowing over the treetops, I knew what I had to do: I gathered some food, water and candles and headed with the Shaman into the woods... I went to the spirit house. Initially, I thought of going to the elephant's tomb but then I recalled that there's a spirit house in every home in Laos; the house is intended to provide shelter for spirits which could cause problems for the people if not appeased so offerings are left at the house to propitiate them.

When I got there I lit the candles and placed my offerings (food and water) in the house; the Shaman kneeled on the ground and completed his prayers while I remain silent. What did he say? I will never know. When he finished he walked back to the camp without saying a word... I decided to stay and do some prayer of my own. I noticed how darkness and silence surrounded me, I couldn't even hear the Shaman's steps anymore. I looked around, I was clearly by myself but I did not feel alone at all. It was like the entire forest was watching...listening...waiting.

I knelt on the wet muddy ground and prayed out loud: I asked the elephant's spirit for his forgiveness; I said I was sorry that he wasn't properly cremated and that we couldn't help him or save him. I told him I believed it was time for him to move on to his next life or rest in peace or do whatever it is that spirits do but not to come back here since there was nothing left for him in this life. 

I walked back through the forest with the full moon as my torch... I had the feeling that no elephant spirit was going to wake me up ever again. And guess what? It didn't. 

More to come,

Karla Nova